The whole thing is split into 4 stages, and I decided to go north to south and get the longer ones over first. Thank god I did, because on the first stage between Monterosso and Vernazza, I sweat probably a gallon and a half and it wasn't even that hot out. That first stage was supposed to be the hardest, but I didn't think it would be bad- I mean, it's only about 4km.
Uh, it's 4km of steep (and I mean steep) stairs.
By Vernazza, I'm ashamed to say my muscles were shaking. Here I am thinking that running all summer has kept me in shape, and I get beat by a 4km hike! But after a foccacia, a large water and a long sit by the marina, I had psyched myself back up to make the trek to Corniglia, another 3.5km.
The rest of the hike was nowhere near as tiring as that first stage, and the stage from Corniglia to Manarola was closed for repairs, so I got a little respite on the train to Manarola. The entire hike was amazing, though- it's right on the vibrantly blue sea, built into the mountains with terraces of grape and olive and apricot crops surrounding the trail. The path sometimes is only wide enough for one person, and often the only thing between you and a drop to your death is a creaky wooden hand rail. Smooth wind rolls in off the ocean and the sounds of the waves put anything on your ipod to shame.
I found myself smiling the entire day, and I realize that I didn't even think about anything that usually bothers me when I have time alone. It was just a full day of a nice breeze, a slight tan, grins and puppies and silly foreign kids and blue blue ocean and mountains and dumb people in flip flops (seriously.) A completely enoyable day. The only thing I wish I had time for was a swim, which I had to cut out of my trip if I wanted to do the hike and wander in each village a little, but that's okay. Still perfect.
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